Message from Frank Tschöpe

Highest Pass: Osoruri 4860m

Yesterday evening was quite funny: A herd of about 200 sheep came back from the fields and surrounded my tent! Some of them were curious and watched inside my tent! These sheep then were gathered inside a 30m times 10m fence and they were just 20m below my terrace! Surprisingly they were absolutely quit during all the night! The only noise came from 4 dogs that guarded the sheep!

Today was a very tough start dirst from 4100m to 4770m then down to 4550m and a final ascent to 4860m, the highest point of the circuit! I was feeling weak and a bit dizzy but manages to reach the top with lots of breaks and in a slow pace! From then it should only be descending, so I am very comfortable now for the last 1-2 days!

Today I had even luck with some clouds! The last days were always with clear sky which makes photography very difficult! Overall I am happy with my pictures but with clouds they would have been even better! But I will produce a calendar "Awe-inspiring hikes of the world: The Alpamayo Circuit". This afternoon the glass of my 77mm Zeiss filter broke into pieces! Good that I always go for this protection! My 70-200mm 2.8 lens would have cost me 2000EUR, this filter is only 100EUR! Now I have to take great care fot that lens! My favourite lens on this trip was the 24mm Tilt-Shift! Interesting to see the results!

Now I camp right behind a dam wall of a big lake! A very nice place and my Hilleberg Allek tent works without any pegs! I like this tent very much!

But I run short of food now! Tomorrow morning I will have my last muesli and then it is only 150g remaining paranuts! Interestingly I bought them in Switzerland, but the nuts come from Bolivia! Long way back to South America!

I hope the live-tracking on my home-page www.franktschoepe.com NEWS worked and I am very close to the finish in Chesapampa now! I might try the natural hot spring there!

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Message from Frank Tschöpe

In the heat and high altitude close to dehydration

Today the route profile looked easy as it is mainly a gentle downwards slope! But it was windy and very hot again with clear sky! I have no mineral drink left and for the next 2 days I am dependent on the salt in the last 2 hot meals! I am really looking forward for a tasty multi-burger with a triple portion of French Fries! I will find out what is possible in Huarez in a few days!

Today I met a couple of French hikers walking to Alpamayo base camp! Otherwise I didnt meet any hikers on the last 5 days, which came as a great surprise to me! This is one of the greatest hiking routes in the world and I expected lots of tourists here! Maybe the route is too difficult and demanding! I nearly spent all the time above 4000m and tomorrow there is again an exhausting climb in the sun over Osoruri pass at 4860m! At least I am very comfortable now with my backpack, which should be about 38kg now! I don't know about you but carrying 45kg up the passes is really a pain! And I am not a donkey!

Today I was close todehydration and was very happy to reach a little creek and there I found a beautiful tent site on a 10mx5m terrace surrounded by wheat! I hope that the farmers are OK with this! 150m below I see some buildings, but they do not see my tent here on the terrace!

On the way there were many stone walls and ruins and I would really like to know how old they are and why they were built! Then there were many horses, cows, sheep in this beautiful valley. And very long a view to the perfect snow-triangle of Alpanayo! That mountain looks very difficult to climb from this side! At least you have a snow/ice-slope of 60 degrees! Alpamayo is much more impressive as the Matterhorn! Really mind-blowing and of overwhelming beauty!

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Message from Frank Tschöpe

Day hike above 5000m altitude

Now that I am very well acclimatized I went for a day hike which brought my to a fantastic platform with views to Alpamayo and also the highest mountain Santa Cruz (6250m). I only would have needed some interesting clouds to make my photos even better, but today I managed to shot very good frames of Alpamayo! So I have already enough pictures for some beautiful calendars!

It is very hot here during the days with hardly any clouds! I am close to dehydration, but today I should recover a bit! I shaved and washed my hair in the little creek!

Still no people here! And also neither farm nor wild animals! I think they killed all the bigger wild animals here, if there were any at all!

As I have only food for 3 days left I will try to reach Chesapampa (that is civilization) already on Tuesday! So 4 more days of hiking, 2 higher passes at about 4800m need to be traversed!

In Chesapampa I plan to go to the natural hot spring, then I go with bus to Caraz and Huarez, where I will spend 3 nights for recovery! I need to put on weight! I feel hat ai might have lost 5 kg here during this 14days hike! I never cannot eat so much to equalize the high calories burning rate while hiking!

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Message from Frank Tschöpe

Alpamayo Base Camp 4550m

Today was a very tough day with more than 1000m ascent and 700m descent! I was happy when I reached the highest point, the Gara Gara Pass at 4830m. From then there were beautiful views of Alpamayo with its turkis glacier lake! This made me forget all the pain of the day! I continued to Alpamayo Base Camp North and expected some tents and lots of people! To get there it was another exhausting climb of 300m and up the moraine! When I reached the place there was nobody, not even a single climber! Maybe base Camp South is more popular among climbers! I will find out when I am home!

I expect a very cold night here with -5 degrees and unfortunately I am just behind a higher mountain, so I will not get any warming sunbeams before 9am in the morning! Today I plan a dayhike which will lead me very close to the highest mountain of this range, Nevada Santa Cruz (6241m). In the following 3-4 days I then have to return to civilization, as food and drinks get scarce! All the chocolade is already gone! :-(

Great circuit, that I can highly recommend! One of the best hikes in the world!

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Message from Frank Tschöpe

Hike to Lake Pucacocha (4512m) - Attacked by agressive bull

Today was another fantastic sunny day and I started early for a day hike with minimal equipment (mainly photography!). First I visited Lake Safuna Baja (4247m). Then I went on an amazing track to Lake Pucacocha (4512m).This beautiful lake is towered by 6000m high mountains! There were some old stone walls nearby! I have no idea what they had been used for in the past.

Then I had the idea to hike even more step up to another lake at 4650m, called Lake Quitaracsa. I needed to cross a meadow and was very surprised to meet a herd of cows, about 15 animals. First I just continued as usual but then there was a big black bull with horns that seemed to be the boss of the herd! He came closer to me with a deep voice and he looked like he right went for an attack! So I retreated very fast to some bigger stones where that bull could not advance so fast! And I was lucky that he only stepped forward a few meters and then stopped as the invader was sent away! So what did I learn! In Peru you have take care not only for criminals in Lima and for crazy busdrivers but you also need to take agressive bulls seriously! Best to avoid them fully!

Nontheless a great day with another series of nice pictures! Tomorrow will be a very tough climb over Gara Gara Pass at 4830m. I hope to reach already Alpamayo Base Camp North where I intend to stay at least another 2 days!

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Message from Frank Tschöpe

Great photography day of Alpamayo (5947m)

Yesterday evening I had stomach problems and the reason was the contaminated little lake! Too late I was aware that also cows and horses use the lake as a water source! But I was lucky that today I felt fine again!

Today I first had to climb up Yanakon pass at 4610m, which was again exhausting and painful, but after 2h30 I made it and there were superb views to Pucajirca Norte (6046m) with nice cloud formations! Then there was a steep and later a gentle descent to about 4000m and there was a single farm at the end of the valley! There was an extremely young pig and I took photos of a little boy playing with all those small animals! Interesting that there were also a large group of lamas on another meadow! And always horses, pigs, cows and sheep! So far I have not seen any modern machines! Here it is still like farming was done 200 years ago!

Then I turned left and followed an old grass road! And here there were fascinating views of Alpamayo (5947m) and Pucajirca Oeste (6039m). It turned out to be one of the best photography days in my life! I shot mainly with 70-200mm 2.8 extended by factor 2. So 400mm, aperture 8.0 delivered the sharpest pictures! I am sad that I left my ultra-sharp 200-400mm at home. Even the 300mm 2.8 would have been great for ultra-sharp shots! But I was very happy with the clouds today and also with my results!

I found a great camp site with view to Alpamayo and only a few meters to a river! I am likely to stay here for 2 nights, as it is a great place and I am very comfortable with my time schedule snd food! I have still 8 days left for hiking!

I am very sure that I will visit this beautiful region again! There is even another spectacular circuit, but that also takes at least 10-12 days! The one where Joe Simpson had his accident! Then I might think about climbing Alpamayo! I met several hikers with this idea and it will be interesting to hear who succeeded.

Great weather here, maybe too much sun!

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Message from Frank Tschöpe

Day 7: Rest day at a little lake at 4150m

I am feeling fine now after I had an easy day yesterday as of the valuable support of a horse and his owner Alberto! Because of his great service I gave him an extra 20USD, which is maybe a month salary here on the countryside! I like to help those people here that are so friendly and very supportive!He was very happy and rode back with his horse yesterday!

One thing which is a bit odd: On the farms I saw really all kind of animals, even animals that are unusual in Europe! Like "Meerschweinchen". But one animal I didnt see yet: a cat! Either they are not welcome here as they are not productive (eg. no mice?) or they are just not popular?

The puppies of all animals are really sweet, even the little pigs look really nice!

Here nature is that great that I am not much motivated anymore for hikes in Switzerland! There nearly everything is destroyed with infrastructure! Hardly any silent place that is untouched by civilization! And most swiss are not even aware of this..

Today is a rest day and I will recharge all my gadgets with solar energy! Also I plan a little bathe in this cold lake only 1m away from my tent! Tomorrow I go for the next pass which is 4650m high and it will be exhausting as it is a steep one and I have no help of a horse or donkey!

So today eat, drink, sleep, read, swim, gentle day walk and then I will be very fit for tomorrow! :-)

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Message from Frank Tschöpe

Great idyllic country life in the Peruans Mountains

Last night my camp site was suboptimal, as I had to wait till 8am for the sun to dry my tent! Then I needed only 30min to my third pass, Tupatupa (4360m). Then it was a long descent and I loved it as it reminded me of New Zealand! I reached a very idyllic village at 3650m altitude, called Pishgopampa! Maybe there are about 150 people living! It is a fantastic place with all farm animals that you know: goose, dogs, pigs, sheep, goats, horses, donkeys, hens and other! I managed to photograph a little child playing with 2 little dog puppies! Very nice pictures! So in case I got robbed in Lima they would get everything from me, but not those pictures! I will fight for my life and i will keep the pictures!

Here in this little village I could have stayed a week for a holiday on the countryside! But maybe another time! I got in contact with a farmer and tried to explain my next route! It is very difficult without any Spanish but after a while he understood my plan and we started together! The route is up about 500m and my camp shall be close to the next steep pass (4610m). I gave him 50 Solas (18USD) in advance and he was very happy! First he took his horse and packed it with my 20kg bag and then we started. When he saw that I had problems with the pace he even took my 25kg backpack himself! That was great and we had a decent pace then! He was in unbelievable good shape and he didn't even need any rest or drinks! I found a nice campsite at 4150m directly at a little 1m-deep lake! Maybe I will stay here for 2 nights to recover a bit and gain some strength! Also I plan a nice swim tomorrow as I urgently needed a wash! I hope the ground is not muddy! Difficult to say!

What I really like is the kind of farming here! Nearly all animals are free! There are no fences! Horses are free and sometimes I first encounter them at 4000m altitude close to the passes! Then there are cows, pigs and all are free! Sometimes with their puppies! It is really great to be among those animals, who behave all very nicely!

So I like Peru even more than Nepal! Beautiful landscapes, idyllic country life, very nice people here in the mountains and also mostly sunny weather! Great place to be! But on another note: You have to avoid Lima! I judge it as dangerous, dirty and polluted! There I dont feel safe and I will not explore it this time!

Though I am very high at 4150m I cannot see any snowy mountains from this place! Expect me to stay here for 2 nights! ;-)

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Message from Frank Tschöpe

Close to Tupatupa Pass (4360m)

Today was a great day! It started with clear sky and I had an excellent early morning photo session from 4640m altitude! I was surrounded by impressive mountains! The night was very cold with -5 degrees, but as soon as the sun is out it gets comfortably warm! Yesterday evening I had my first headache, but after drinking my last tea with coca leaves I slept deeply and in the morning I was very fine! So my tactic with respect to acclimatization worked very well with the following sleeping altitudes: 50m, 3100m, 3100m, 3700m, 4250m, 4400m, 4640m and tonight 4250m. I think now I am getting stronger as the acclimatization is partly achieved! I dont know the theory though after how many days the body has produced all the red blood cells.

Today started with a long descent to 3850m and I felt as being in New Zealand with some tussock grass! Then there were lots of animals: horses, cows, pigs and sheep! Finally I met even some farmers at a bigger beautiful lake! They were all extremely friendly, but communication is nearly not possible as I dont speak Spanish! But they understood that I walk solo around Alpamayo! Sometimes they show me the right path! The older ladies wear very colorful clothes! This seems to be the traditionell dress in Peru! A little boy wanted to sell one of his sheep to me, but what shall I do with it! I would rather need a donkey and maybe in the next village I might hire one!

Some passages today were without path and at times very muddy! Once I found myself knee-deep in a hole of mud! But here it doesnt matter! Finally I will throw away some of my equipment! My trousers are already totally torn!

Finally I was very exhausted and didn't make it to the pass Tupatupa (4360m). Instead I camp 100m below at a very little lake! No drinking water though as I have just seen a cow stepping into the water! So I am left with only 1l of tea and I am still dehydrated! Hiking uphill in the sun is extremely tough and I am close to my physical limit! But very often I am rewarded by breathtaking views and beautiful scenery!

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Message from Frank Tschöpe

Camping at 4640m altitude!

It is a great camp site here on the pass with views into 2 valleys below me! But the weather today is cloudy with wind from the east! I hope it will improve over the next 24h. I might stay here till tomorrow noon! I met nobody on the route and dont expect anyone to come! Most people go for the easy 4-days Santa Cruz Trek and they even hire guides for that! This way at least the locals earn some easy money!

When I use the word porter I actually mean the persons that care for the donkeys! Here no person is carrying heavy loads on his back - the tough work is done by the donkeys and sometimes also horses! In Nepal I had better experience with porters: there they are inexpensive, very strong and very reliable! Here they dont go the last mile, e.g. originally we agreed that they carry my 20kg load over 2 passes! Later they told ne that the second pass is too steep for donkeys, but of course this was not the truth..

Maybe I go solo the next 2 weeks, because it is better for photography without any "group pressure"! If i could I would just hire a nice donkey, but without an additional person! Then I would have everything under control! And no negotiations on how far and when to hike!

So raining now! But never mind! i have a rest day in my tent with reading books and music!

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